שערן לכבוד שב"ק

[mikva yid]

אזוי ווי מען האלט שוין נאך די 3 וואכן און די ניין טעג וואס מען האט זיך נישט געקענט שערן און די מקוה אידן האבן א לאנגע ליין, דאן אלס עצה טובה קויפט אייך אליינס א שער מאשין און זעצט אייך אראפ ביים שפיגל און הוידא געגאנגען
אזוי ווי דער מאשין צוקויפן לאזט איבער א שטיקל לאך אין די קעשענע, אשר על כן וואלט איך אייך געראטן איבערצוקוקען די הלכות, כדי צו האלטן א לענגערע לעבן באזיס פאר דעם שערער, וואס ווערן דא אראפגעברענגט וואס איך פארשטיי נישט פארוואס "אסטער" זיכט דאס אויסצומיידן פון אונז.
ווער עס האט נאך פרטים משום אל תמנע טוב מבעליו זאל דאס ביטע אנצייגן (און די PDF געפינט זיך אויך בילדער)



[left]Make: OSTER


DO NOT!
• Attempt to work on the clipper with it connected to the main power supply.
• Attempt to clip a wet or perspiring animal.
• Touch the blades when moving!
• Switch the machine on with loose or missing blades. (In the interests of safety ensure that both blades are tightly seated.)
• Push the clipper through the hair in order to force it to clip, rather guide the machine In the direction you want to clip and let the machine do the work!
• Use if the voltage at your site is different to that on the clipper information data.
• Attempt to take apart or assemble the blades or any parts of the clipper over straw, shavings or other materials. Only carry out such tasks on a specified area i.e. tables or workbench otherwise essential parts may be lost.
• Immerse either the machine or cutter head in liquid (oil/diesel/lubricant) of any kind.
CLIPPER INFORMATION:
• The Clipper is double insulated UL approved and CE rated
• Do not attempt to operate this machine without first oiling the blades.
• Do not use WD 40 or other similar solvents/scouring agents to clean the clipper or the blades.
• Do not attempt to sharpen the blades yourself - they need a special machine.
• A wide range of “snap-on” blades can be fitted to this clipper, including those made by Oster as well as the Wahl range and others similar “snap-on” type blades.
• The “snap-on” type blades should not be taken apart other than for sharpening purposes at the place of sharpening.
• Blades need to be regularly sharpened to keep a good cutting edge, and they must be constantly oiled during use.
Removing the blades:
Ensure that the clipper is not connected to the main power supply, if so, disconnect before attempting to remove the blades
Hold the machine firmly in your hand (right or left) with the maker's name facing you. (OSTER.) Now rotate the body casing 180 degrees until you are viewing the underside of the clipper.
Immediately before the blade (comb) (See fig 1) you will see a “black” blade release lever. With your thumb push this firmly upwards towards the blade above and hold in position. With your other hand place your thumb on the rear edge of the comb and your two index fingers on the front teeth. Pivot the blade in an upward and backward angle until it clicks back in position. You can now slide the blade off the blade ”tongue”. You can now release the "thumb" of your other hand! The blade should now be fully removable from the clipper. (This is best practised a few times over something soft such as a cushion rather than a concrete floor!)

Fitting the blades:
Hold the machine firmly in your hand (right or left) with the body casing facing you (You should be able to read the maker’s name! (OSTER.)
Take the blade set in your other hand and seat it upon the blade latch tongue, which will slide between the comb blade plate and the tension spring assembly. (See fig 2)
NOTE: if the blade latch tongue has for some reason snapped shut against the blade latch assembly you will not be able to fit the blade. All you need to do to rectify this is to insert a flat object (thin screwdriver – best quality kitchen knife!) between the two and gently twist round to force open again. (See fig 3)
With the blade seated on the tongue and held in place with the fingers of your other hand, press the upper portion of the blade towards the clipper body - it should “snap” shut. (This can be done with the motor running and will not effect the performance of the clipper - whilst normally quiet a safe operation for adults NOT children! just exercise care against possible personal injury). Check the blade is right home to the clipper casing - a gap of about 0.5 - 1½ mm is normal.
The blade is now fitted! In some cases especially with new blades/machines, the blade may requires a further degree of pressure to make sure it is right home to the casing This soon ceases once the blades have been used a few times.
However before you rush to switch on. Oil the blades before commencing a test run with the clipper
(When operating for the first time after changing blades the machine should be pointed away from you and/or any animal before switching on to test.)
Now test the clipper.


Tensioning the blades:
One of the joys of the “snap-on” blade is that there is no tensioning to be carried out!
However some blades, especially those of other manufacturers, may in certain instances need adjustment. In a normal situation you should be able to move the cutter blade backwards and forwards with moderate pressure within the "tension spring" hold. Do not undo the blade screws as this will affect the blade alignment and may cause the blade to jam and not cut.
To make any adjustment (See Fig 4) simply place the blade flat on a table surface, (screws side down) with the blade teeth pointing away from you. Next slide the cutter blade to the right, then place a flat headed screwdriver between the blade spring and the comb, now with gentle pressure pry upwards only sufficiently to slightly slacken the tension. If you over do it you will end up with the tension too loose!

Oiling:
Oiling of the blades should be carried out at regular intervals during the clipping application. Apply a small quantity of oil on the ends of the blades whilst the trimmer is running. Only use clipper oil or light machine oil of good quality
Attachment Combs:
Are not supplied with the clipper but can be obtained in various sizes. Their purpose is to allow a specific depth of hair to be left on the body irrespective of the angle you may clip. They are easily attached by clipping over the blade from front to back.
Routine Maintenance:
BEFORE carrying out any work on the clipper first disconnect from the mains power supply
Is important and should be carried regularly. Do not conducted maintenance tasks over straw, shavings, or other types of bedding. Preferably use a flat table surface or work bench, otherwise you can risk small parts becoming lost in the process.
Air Filters: (See fig 6 & 8)
BEFORE carrying out any work on the clipper first disconnect from the mains power supply
Oster A5 clippers have a track record especially in dog grooming circles of overheating. Those machines with the "on/off" switch located at the rear of the appliance appear to be especially troubled with overheating. It is vital therefore that the air filter zone is kept clear of any blockages at all times and is cleaned daily especially in busy grooming parlour situations
The air filter zone is a vital air cooling intake for the cooling running of the clipper motor and it is natural that if this becomes even partly blocked the motor will quickly become starved of cool air with the result that it will rapidly start to overheat.
Sadly the design of the air filter cover is not "over friendly" to easy cleaning, and unlike most clippers of its type rather laborious in its cleaning involvement. The removal of the mesh cover is relatively easy, - gently part the hang hook wire so that each side is withdrawn from the holes in the casing and then you can remove the mesh which slides down the clipper cable for cleaning. (See fig 8)
A surprisingly large amount of hair and dirt which somehow manages to get through the filter mesh, will often collect inside the rear compartment of the clipper (beyond the area covered by the air filter mesh). If you unscrew the two screws at the rear of the clipper either side of the on/off switch you can gently and carefully withdraw the casing which will then allow you to remove tufts of collected hair and dirt which threaten to block the area. (I find a pair of small tweezers ideal for this job) Exercise caution so as not to damage any of the wires in the area! (See fig 8)


Blade lever replacement: (See fig 5)
BEFORE carrying out any work on the clipper first disconnect from the mains power supply
Replace the blade drive lever when it shows signs of becoming worn or in the event of clipper's performance starting to drop off, signs of tracking, when tapping or clicking noises occurring. This maintenance task can be easily undertaken by most operators and only requires the clipper nameplate to be removed by undoing the two screws and lifting off. Remove the plate to expose the drive lever bar which should be gently raised to remove it from it’s the two oval pins onto which it fits. Be careful not to dislodge or lose the two "felt brushes" positioned either side of the lever
When replacing the drive lever seat it gently into the two pins using equal pressure. Grease lightly before replacing the head plate and finally fixing back the two screws. It is NOT necessary to use excessive amounts of grease

Greasing:
BEFORE carrying out any work on the clipper first disconnect from the mains power supply
Please note that over greasing can cause leakage and reduce the operating efficiency of the machine. Check monthly by removing the metal nameplate. Then remove the nylon drive lever, metal link, and gear. Insert grease tube nozzle into the hole on the top of the gear post. NOTE: If grease does not come through, clean holes. Do NOT fill the cavity with grease. Replace the link and gear and add a small amount of grease to the teeth of the gear & linkage. Use only Oster Grease, which is specially formulated for double insulated clippers.
Carbon Brushes
BEFORE carrying out any work on the clipper first disconnect from the mains power supply
These need to be inspected on a regular basis, and replaced periodically to insure maximum motor performance and life expectancy. Remove the brush cap by unscrewing it - you will need a broad-based screwdriver - (See fig 7) Remove both the plastic cap and the brass cap using slight pressure on the side of the cap in a "finger picking" action and withdraw the carbon brush and spring assembly. Check the length of the carbon, comparing both the round and square sections of the brush. When the square section has been reduced to the length of the round section replacement is necessary to prevent possible damage to the motor armature. (expensive!)
Carbon brushes MUST be replaced as sets - not individually. Use ONLY Oster genuine Carbon Brushes Avoid substitutes IMPORTANT! When ORDERING BRUSHES specify Model Number of clipper and voltage rating.
When reinstating the brush, make sure that the sharp pointed corners of the brush are aligned with the triangular notches in the brass cap and then the nylon cap over the brush spring and pressing down to seat the brass cap into the brush tube. Replace the outer housing cap and screw down tightly to prevent loosening

Cleaning:
BEFORE carrying out any work on the clipper first disconnect from the mains power supply
Cleaning of the blades and inside of the clipper head (See fig 3) should be thoroughly carried out after every clipping session to avoid a build up of hair and dirt. Remove all traces of oil and hair with a small stiff brush and wiped clean with a dry clean cloth. The use of an airline is ideal - if available. Failing that, use a small oil paint brush – the stubby type – This will enable you to remove most of the muck, after which a good “blow” will usually do the rest! Try to avoid a build up of dirt and hair – it makes cleaning easier!
When completely free from hair clippings and oil, re oil all working parts within the head and likewise to the blades to prevent any occurrence of rust. Remember even the smallest spots of rust can have an adverse effect on the cutting performance of the blades - in some cases making clipping impossible.

Professional Servicing & Repairs
Should only be undertaken by qualified engineers appointed by the Manufacturer or his distributor. Regular servicing is necessary in accordance with the amount of use of the machine to protect it malfunction and to ensure it is kept in a high state of operational effectiveness. Machine should be serviced well before anticipated use.

Storage:
When not in use, having been thoroughly cleaned and oiled, the machine should be stored in a dry place preferably in your house. Do not leave in tack rooms, stables, damp grooming parlours, cowsheds and dairy parlours or similar places. The same should apply to all blades. Keep oiled and dry at all times.
Additional Information:
All Oster spare parts are available from Peasridge
(01424 882900 or e-mail PEASRIDGE info@peasridge.co.uk to order parts)
Updated information
25/02/2002 - Renewing the “on/off” switch:
Please note that when ordering the “on/off” switch for the Oster A5 clipper it is important to stipulate whether a “rocker” or “toggle” switch is required. To ascertain which your machine requires you will need to refer to the nameplate on the clipper, which is located on the top of the handpiece. Here amongst other information i.e. voltage and the serial number you will find example (MODEL 5-65L)
All Oster A5 models bearing the letters before “G” require a “Toggle” switch - Models with the letter “G” and onwards require a “Rocker” switch You will need to solder both sides in the case of the “rocker” switch, but only one side is soldered in the case of the “toggle” switch, the other being screw fixed.
BLADES
Clippers have two blades! The bottom and invariability larger of the two is generally referred to as the “comb” but can also be called the “lower plate”. The other (the smaller of the two) is called the “cutter”, also known as the “upper plate” (basic stuff – but an awful lot of folk haven’t got the hang of what blades are individually called.) The cutter is the one, which cuts and therefore moves at very considerable speeds backward and forwards across the comb, which is stationary!

Due to the tremendous speed (up to 4000 stokes per minute on some machines) blades get hot – very hot! Therefore you should oil your the blades regularly to help cool them. If you don’t, a chain of incidents can fairly quickly happen – blades overheat – blade go blunt – blades refuse to cut – clipper head overheats - machine malfunctions - animal complains about getting burnt! - operator gets stressed!
Blades should always be sharpened as a pair. If you break one and are able to get a replacement (not always possible) get them both re-sharpened together. Broken teeth in a blade will result in a cut leaving a groove of hair (referred to as a “tramline”) Try to always ensure blades do not become rusty (cleaning and oiling helps!) Rust pits the metal face of the teeth making it difficult to get a really sharp edge. Always store away at the end of the season oiled and suitably wrapped.
________________________________________
It has already been stated that any clipper whatever the make or model, is only as good as its blades.
It therefore follows that the sharpening of this important part of the clipping operation need to be only carried out by those who; -
1. Have both acquired both knowledge and the experience of professional blade sharpening
and
2. The right type of machinery to perform the task of sharpening correctly every blade received.
Needless to say this is not always everybody's experience!
Cheap and seemingly "bargain" sharpening prices can and very often do turn out to be an expensive error.
How does one avoid getting badly sharpened blades?
The answer has to be "use only reliable sharpening" specialists.
Blade sharpening is a skill, it takes a good deal of practice and experience to set up and configure a professional lapping machine, to say nothing of being able to sharpen accurately a huge range of widely differing blades. People with such skills are extremely valuable.
Even when your blades have been sharpen to total perfection, they can still blunt within seconds if they encounter areas of contamination within the coat. Few animals, other that those for whom it is possible to bath, can ever be described as totally free of dust and dirt.
If one grasps and understands this very real cause of blade going blunt - one will appreciate the importance of never under taking clipping an animal without a spare set of blades.
Care of your blades is important if a good cutting edge is to be obtained when sharpening. Avoid at all cost rust, and contact with any manure, which can pit the steel within a very short time. Be fastidious about cleaning immediately after use - not weeks later when rust has had a "holiday" on your blades. Especially clean in between the teeth of each of the blades for rust here can severely affect the cutting edge. After cleaning oil the entire metal surface and keep in a dry atmosphere. Avoid using solvents and cleaning solutions especially WD 40.



Types of blades
There are a variety of different types and shapes of blades used for clipping a wide variety of both hair coated (Cattle/Horses/Donkeys/Deer/Goats/Cats & Dogs) and fibre coated animals such as Alpacas Sheep and Angora goats.
Before clipping every effort should be made to ensure you are using the right blade for the particular clipping task you are undertaking.
• Horse blades
• Cattle blades
• Sheep blades (Cutter & Combs)
• Goat blades
• Dog blades
• Trimmer blades
Probably someone will think of a few others - but we are concerned with the main type!

Blades styles
Traditional type blades
Commonly used with most heavy duty and light duty machines they comprise of two separate items - the cutter and the comb. Some manufacturers refer in their literature to the “upper and lower plates” - same thing! (As a guide the comb is the bigger of the two.) The comb/lower plate is either set into two lugs as on (Hauptner/Wolseley) and a good few others, or slotted in and held tight by two fixing screws, as in the case of (Aesculap/Heiniger) The cutter/upper plate is the blade “driven” by motor (via a “crank head”) and usually requires to be fitted over a “drive” block.
Traditional type blades may require to be aliened in some cases and virtually all need to be first tensioned to clip smoothly. Re -tensioning can be necessary on more than on occasion during a single clipping operation.
“Snap on” type blades
A type typically used by professional Dog Groomers and beginning to be seen occasionally in horse and cattle clipping circles. Generally this type of blade is fitted to the smaller clippers - either mains or cordless.
When fitted with this type of blade the clipper head is at an angle roughly between 35 and 55 degrees angle to the body, which at first sight may appear odd but is soon discovered to be a very acceptable way to clip with many advantages over the traditional style head.
The blade set comprises of the lower plate/comb and the upper plate/cutter. The two parts of the blade are held in place by a tension spring, which will have been designed, to the correct tension at the factory. To ease the smooth running of the cutter the head of the spring is capped with a "nylon“ sleeve. The tension spring is fixed down to the bottom blade/comb by two screws, which you do not undo!
The principle advantage of “snap on” type blades are that they:
1. Do away with the need to screw on and alien the comb with the cutter
2. Remove the hassle of having to keep tensioning blades whilst clipping
"Snap-on" or Detachable type blades are not designed to be normally taken apart, nor is it recommended, as once unscrewed you end up with a collection of various "parts" which initially you may find a little bewildering when you attempt to re-assemble. Whilst it may be necessary to remove the cutter blade (see fig 5) so as to clean both blades and remove trapped hairs, it is not necessary to take the whole blade set apart!
However, should for whatever reason, you unscrew this type of blade or it comes apart, the following diagrams may prove useful in the re-assembly process.
Fig 1

Here you can see there are two sizes of detachable blades, the wide blade - the type regularly fitted to clippers used for full body horse clipping and the narrow blade - the traditional style of blade used for cat and dog grooming as well as a number of veterinary tasks. The blades are featured showing both blade sides - the cutting face, and the side of the blade, which snaps shut against the blade drive lever of the clipper.
Fig 2

The component parts which make up the assembled blade!
Take the blade apart and these are all the bits, which you have to re-assemble, in order to get it all back together again. Note especially the nylon sleeve, this is important, as you will see in subsequent diagrams. The component parts are arranged in the order you would re-assemble.
Fig 3

Shows in closer detail the nylon sleeve and how it should be fitted on to the metal bar of the spring. You will find it "slips" over the metal to fit snugly. Also note the "latch assembly" fitted on to the spring with the screw holes aligned and in position for the fitting of the screws when the comb blade is in position
Fig 4

The "spring" and "latch assembly" have been screwed in position on the "comb blade". Having done this it is important to make sure before you finally tighten the screws that the edge of the spring (including the nylon sleeve which should be fitted in position) is parallel and of equal distance for the whole of its length with the "recessed" edge of the comb. (just in front of the tooth row).
Fig 5

Lastly, you need to insert the cutter blade with the "groove" sliding under the "nylon sleeve". In order to effect this it is best to gently raise the "spring" by inserting a small screwdriver between the comb blade surface and the "nylon sleeve" and slightly raise upwards, sufficiently to allow the cutter blade to slide under and into a central position.
You should now have successfully re-assembled the "detachable blade" and it is now ready to be fitted to the clipper. With most clippers using this type of blades, they are best fitted with motor running, if you have a speed choice select the slower speed. Apply oil to the blade before fitting on to the clipper and running.[/left]

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איך טוה דאס שוין איבער 10 יאר! איך שער זיך ביים שפיגל (2 שפיגלעך)